Week in Review:
September 8-14
Monday, September 8th
Still descending from
“Ninja Peak”…
Tuesday, September 9th
Sunrise after a night summit of my last ranked 14er |
PM—3.5
Miles—1:12—1,100’—Little Bear SW Ridge Route Scouting
I decided to scout the route up to Little Bear’s SW ridge
from near Tobin Creek. I wanted to see if there was a way to avoid the thorny
bushwhack through Tobin Creek. I ended up finding a nice jeep road that went up
to some mining ruins. From there, it looked like a bit of a bushwhack up to the
ridge with the usual tremendous amount of downfall, but hopefully no thorn
bushes. I had to turn around before scouting much further since night was
creeping in and I didn’t have a light.
Wednesday, September 10th
Mining ruins on the south side of Little Bear |
AM—9
Miles—5:53—6,500’—South Little Bear and Little Bear
I decided to head up the SW Ridge to summit the unranked
14er, South Little Bear. I forgot to hit this peak when Paul and I did the
Little Bear-Blanca-Ellingwood traverse a few weeks ago. The bushwhack up to
treeline seemed to go on forever, but once I reached the ridge it was smooth
sailing with a lot of talus hopping. The ridge offered up a few fun, exposed
knife-edge sections as I neared South Little Bear’s summit. I decided to shimmy
over to the summit of Little Bear real quick and ended up lingering around for
a while talking to other climbers. I met a group of three (Britt, Joey, and I
can’t remember the last guy’s name) and chatted with them for quite some time
before parting ways. Britt got some great photos of me on SLB, which he kindly
emailed to me. The descent to treeline went by quickly. When I got below
treeline I had to make sure I descended via the correct rib that would take me
to the road for an easy descent that avoided the thorny bushwhack. I began
making my way down a rib, which happened to be the wrong one. Luckily, there
was a clearing where I was able to see that I was on the wrong ridge before
descending too low. I quickly made my way over to the right one and headed down
to some mining ruins that had a faint trail below them. After about 15 minutes
on the trail I was back on the jeep road for a quick return to the Taco. I just
hiked the entire day.
Thursday, September 11th
View of the Little Bear-Blanca traverse from South Little Bear |
Gazing at Little Bear from the San Luis Valley floor |
Traversing between South Little Bear and Little Bear (Photo: Britt Jones) |
Summit of Little Bear (Photo: Britt Jones) |
Reaching the summit of South Little Bear (Photo: Britt Jones) |
Venturing up Little Bear's southwest ridge |
Staring up Little Bear's SW ridge |
PM—3
Miles—0:43—2,200’—Treadmill
A little uphill running on David’s treadmill while house/dog
sitting while he’s in Steamboat for Run Rabbit Run.
Friday, September 12th
OFF—Taking a little
rest after several big weeks
Saturday, September 13th
OFF—Still resting a
bit…
Sunday, September 14th
OFF—Something about
today being a “Day of Rest” or something like that…
Weekly Totals
Miles—15
Time—7 hours 48
minutes
Elevation Gain—9,800
feet
Week in Review:
September 1-7
Monday, September 1st
PM—2
Miles—0:15—300’—Leadville Roads
Trying out the Hoka Rapa Nui’s that Dave gave me. Kind of
squishy, but pretty comfortable.
Tuesday, September 2nd
OFF—Just plain tired…
Wednesday, September 3rd
PM—10
Miles—4:18—4,200’—La Plata Peak (14,336’)
Nolan’s 14 pacing for Ben. Up the standard route from
Highway 82 and down into Winfield. Ben was a little dehydrated when he got to
the TH so I kept his effort in check for the entire ascent. I kept bugging him
to drink water, take rests, and just keep it mellow. It was actually quite warm
as we made our way up, which was the big reason I didn’t want him working too
hard. My main goal was getting him to Winfield feeling better than he felt at
the Highway 82 trailhead. When we arrived in Winfield it seemed that the
problems bothering Ben at the base of La Plata had faded away.
Thursday, September 4th
AM—16
Miles—13:40—11,000’—Nolan’s Pacing from Clohesy Lake to North Cottonwood
Trailhead
More Nolan’s 14 pacing for Ben. At about 3:30am I joined Ben
at Clohesy Lake and kept him company for the summits of Missouri, Belford,
Oxford, Harvard, and Columbia before descending to North Cottonwood. This was a
long day of easy effort hiking with only a brief period below treeline at Pine
Creek between Oxford and Harvard. The weather was incredibly unpredictable all
day causing us to change clothing countless times. The only positive about the
weather was that it stayed dry all day long. Always great to spend a long day
in the hills with Ben.
Splits:
Missouri—2:11
Belford—4:00 (1:49 split)
Oxford—4:56 (0:56 split)
Harvard—9:27 (4:31 split)
Columbia—11:51 (2:24 split)
North Cottonwood Trailhead—13:40 (1:49 split)
Friday, September 5th
Ben emptying out his shoes on Elkhead Pass |
Sunrise near Elkhead Pass |
OFF—Tired and a
little sore after sleeping in the driver’s seat of the Taco
Saturday, September 6th
AM—5
Miles—1:03—1,150’—Colorado Trail
Just an easy run on the CT from the Blanks Cabin trailhead
for Shavano. First trail run in the Hoka’s Dave gave me. I actually liked the
way they felt…
Sunday, September 7th
PM—26
Miles—18:08—18,400’—A tall peak that will remain Unnamed
Weekly Totals
Miles—59
Time—37 hours 27
minutes
Elevation Gain—35,050
feet
Week in Review:
August 25-31
Monday, August 25th
AM—6
Miles—6:38—1,700’—Climbing on The Matron, North Face
David wanted to get out and climb up one of Roach’s Top 10
Flatiron Classics this morning. So, we headed up to The Matron to ascend its
three-pitch 5.6 north face. I’ve never led trad before and didn’t really feel
like “learning” how today. So, armed with the knowledge acquired from watching
online videos about gear placement and setting up belay anchors, David
proceeded to lead the route like a champ. Storms started rolling in right as we
reached the summit. When you combine the possibility of getting struck by
lightning with the ridiculous amount of gnats on the summit it was an obvious
choice not to linger around for too long. So, we readied for our two rappels
back down to solid ground. As David was doing the first rappel some thunder
started rolling and I saw a flash of lightning. After impatiently waiting for
David to get off the rope it was finally my turn to do my second rappel ever;
it ended up being a lot easier than I remember. We both stood uncomfortably at
the top of the second rappel while dicking around with knots in the rope.
Thunder, rain, and the occasional flash of lightning had me wondering why
everything David and I do seems to end up being a shit show of sorts. As I
neared the ground David told me to look over for a photo. So I did. Then I felt
this weird tugging on my face. It took a moment to realize it, but my friggin’
beard got caught in my ATC! Luckily, there was a flake right next to the face
of The Matron that allowed me to stem out with my legs, while holding onto the
brake end of the rope with one hand and simultaneously using my other hand to
pull up on the top end of the rope. This allowed me to get out with minimal
beard loss. My only thought after was “this is why I solo in the Flatirons…”
Tuesday, August 26th
Little bit of beard hair in the ol' ATC (Photo: David Ponak) |
Photo: David Ponak |
Photo: David Ponak |
Reaching The Matron's summit (Photo: David Ponak) |
David sitting atop the first pitch |
Approaching the north face of The Matron (Photo: David Ponak) |
AM—2.5 Miles—0:38—1,300’—2nd Flatiron Time Trial
I parked the Taco in the
round-a-bout near the park just east of the Ranger Cottage. I trotted up to the
trailhead and began making my way up to the 2nd Flatiron. Nothing
felt especially good on the approach, but as I neared the base of the slab I
noticed that I was making great approach time—I reached the base of the 2nd
in 11:19. So, I decided that if my scrambling felt spot on I would do my first
ever Flatiron time trial. I cruised through the crux bulge without any
hesitation and knew I was going to have a decent split to the top. It was
pretty hot on the exposed slab so I was sweating my ass off and breathing hard
the entire way up. I stopped for a very brief rest (~10-15 seconds) right
before taking the leap of faith and then kept cruising up to the walk-off at
the top of the Freeway route—a 9:40 split for the scramble and 20:59 total
time. The slowest part of the day for me was likely the more technical upper
portion of the descent. As the trail became less rocky I gradually picked up my
pace until I was hitting 5:30 pace for the last half-mile or so. I reached the
trailhead in 13:29 from the top of the Freeway route for a
trailhead-to-trailhead time of 34:28. Short, but fun day!
Wednesday, August 27th
PM—2.5
Miles—1:21—1,700’—2nd Flatiron and 1st Flatiron
I waited around all morning for the slabs to dry after the
night’s rainfall. My legs felt kind of tired so I hiked up to the base of the 2nd
before scrambling up it. I think the easy hiking approach and the significantly
cooler temperatures when compared to yesterday allowed me to shimmy up the
Freeway with less perceived effort than yesterday, but with a similar time—9:56
to the walk-off. En route to the summit I passed another guy soloing the route.
When he reached the top we chatted for a few minutes about the 3rd Flatiron
downclimb before he invited me to follow him up the Fandango route on the 1st
Flatiron, which we covered in about 21 minutes. With storms starting to roll in
we didn’t waste any time hanging around the summit. We quickly knocked out the
downclimb off the backside of the 1st in 6:17 and ran the descent
back to Chautauqua in an attempt to keep from getting soaked in the coming
rain.
Thursday, August 28th
AM—2.5
Miles—0:48—1,300’—Mount Sanitas
I ran up at a slightly hard effort, but on really tired legs.
So, effort and fatigue cancelled each other out and resulted in an average ~20
minute ascent. After sitting on the summit for a while I did a mostly hiking
descent.
Friday, August 29th
AM—17
Miles—7:43—7,500’—Little Bear Peak (14,037’), Blanca Peak (14,345’), Huerfano
County High Point (14,340’), and Ellingwood Point (14,042’)
Paul and I headed out from about a mile up Lake Como Road at
5:30 am. For those who don’t know, Lake Como Road just plain sucks. It’s more
technical than just about any trail you could ever choose to run on. After
grunting up the road for about an hour-and-a-half we reached Lake Como and made
our way to the east side. We began scrambling up the talus slope to gain the
west ridge of Little Bear. Our line kept us on the ridge proper versus sticking
to the marked route a little below the ridge. After a while we got off the
ridge and began following the cairns to the Hour Glass. It seemed to us that
the easiest route would have just stayed directly on the West Ridge crest and
avoided the Hour Glass completely, but who knows? The Hour Glass was an icy and
wet shit show. So, we decided to avoid this by climbing directly up on the left
side of the Hour Glass—significantly harder climbing, but dry rock.
Fortunately, we were the only ones in the Hour Glass, which meant that the
consequences of kicking rocks loose weren’t potentially fatal. After 3:12 Paul
and I were standing on the summit of Little Bear with full view of the
ridgeline traverse in store for us.
After a few minutes of loitering on the summit and snapping
photos we began dropping off the summit and onto the ridge. With the exception
of one or two semi-cruxy moves this traverse proved to be significantly easier
than I expected. Yes, there was decent exposure throughout the traverse, but
the moves were all easy and never seemed to exceed easy 4th Class.
We took our sweet time making our way across the ridge; taking lots of photos
along the way and enjoying the exposure. The ridge certainly offered many
opportunities for exposure junkies to get a little fix. After 1:35 (4:47 total
time) we were sitting on our second 14k foot summit of the day, Blanca Peak.
More loitering and photos ensued before heading over for the quick trip to
Ellingwood Point. This segment was all easy 2nd and 3rd
Class, which Paul and I knocked out in 0:28. After 5:15 we were sitting on our
third 14k feet summit of the day and enjoying a few snacks.
The descent back to Lake Como was enjoyable, but came to an
end far too soon. Once at the lake we had about five miles of the shittiest
four-wheel drive road in Colorado (and maybe the States?) separating us from
our trucks. I ended up bonking like a champ and walking the last three miles or
so back home. Great day on one of Colorado’s four great 14er traverses!
Splits:
Little Bear—3:12
Blanca—4:47 (1:35 split)
Ellingwood—5:15 (0:28 split)
Saturday, August 30th
Little Bear-Blanca traverse (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Bypassing the Hour Glass (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Our full Little Bear-Blanca-Ellingwood traverse from the summit of Ellingwood (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Little Bear-Blanca traverse viewed from Blanca |
Making our way to Blanca from Little Bear (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Little Bear-Blanca traverse viewed from Ellingwood |
Nearing Blanca's summit (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Paul with Little Bear looming overhead |
Little Bear-Blanca-Ellingwood route viewed from Ellingwood |
AM—12.5
Miles—7:02—7,300’—Crestone Peak (14,294’), Northeast Crestone Peak (14,260’),
and Crestone Needle (14,197’)
Paul and I headed to the Cottonwood Creek trailhead just
outside of Crestone after we got down from Lake Como yesterday. Eventually
Brendan Trimboli rolled up to the parking lot to join us on the Crestones the
next morning. Since the route was significantly shorter than Little Bear, Blanca,
and Ellingwood we decided to start somewhere around 7am versus our previous
day’s 5:30am start.
The next morning when I was getting dressed and ready I
decided that I wasn’t going to make the same mistake as the day before and wear
way too much clothing. I opted for my usual minimal style today—shorts, shirt,
wind shell (tucked into shorts), gloves (tucked into shorts), Buff, one
handheld, and two gels.
Near treeline we had to avoid a significant amount of
downfall. Once out of the trees we began making our way towards the base of
Crestone Peak’s red gulley. My legs were pretty spent and not enjoying the
steep ascent at all, but the climb was over before too long. We lingered around
the summit taking photos for a few minutes. When I pointed out Northeast
Crestone to Paul and Brendan I couldn’t help but think how much easier of a
climb it looked like versus last year. Brendan decided he was going to go tag
East Crestone while Paul and I stared at the descent/traverse from the top of
the Red Gulley over to the base of NE Crestone. I had some reservations due to
the path being covered in a dusting of snow and ice, but Paul took the
initiative and led the way. Of course, I followed. It only took us 13 minutes
to get from the summit of Crestone Peak to the summit of Crestone Needle—I
guess it was an easy climb.
We made our way back to the base of East Crestone and joined
Brendan for the beginning of our traverse to Crestone Needle. For the most
part, this traverse stays way below the ridge crest and just involves a lot of
skirting around before ascending the first of two gullies. Then there’s a
little more skirting around to the Black Gendarme, which is where the most
difficult parts of the traverse begin. While ascending this gulley there are
two little bulgy sections of 5.easy climbing up to a very short knife edge
section. Some scurrying up a few ledges finally gets you up to the final summit
pitch to the Needle. This section is sort of steep, sort of exposed, and 4th
class for a hundred feet or so. I’d probably compare it to everything on the 3rd
Flatiron east face route minus the last summit pitch—holds are everywhere and
the angle feels about the same.
On our descent we tried going down a gulley to cut out some
distance down to the lakes. This ended up cliffing out. So, we made our way
back down the long way. My legs were starting to feel the cumulative fatigue of
the past few days, which let Paul and Brendan put a good gap on me. Back at
treeline I got off route somehow and ended up doing a little over an hour of
bushwhacking until I rejoined the trail. Then, I was finally able to run again.
I trotted out the last few miles around 10-minute pace and called it a day.
Splits:
Crestone Peak—2:41
Northeast Crestone—2:54 (0:13 split)
Crestone Needle—4:10 (1:16 split)
Sunday, August 31st
Crestone Peak's summit (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
Nearing Crestone Peak's summit (Photo: Brendan Trimboli) |
Heading up Crestone Peak (Photo: Paul Hamilton, I think?) |
View of the route Paul and I used to ascend NE Crestone Peak |
Posing on Crestone Peak's summit with Brendan (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
View of the traverse to Crestone Needle from Crestone Peak |
Brendan and I descending Crestone Needle (Photo: Paul Hamilton) |
AM—11.5
Miles—2:57—4,800’—Mount Elbert (14,433’)
Pretty easy day up/down the East Ridge from the lower South
Elbert trailhead near Twin Lakes. My legs felt awful on the two mile jeep road
run to the upper trailhead. From the upper trailhead to the summit I pretty
much hiked every step. It was unbelievably cold and terribly windy, which made
me wish I had more clothing. I was wearing skimpy shorts, no shirt, a Buff, no
gloves, sunglasses, and a Patagonia Houdini wind shell. Once above treeline, I
kept my hands down the backside of my shorts the entire way to the summit. This
helped keep them slightly less numb than just keeping them out and exposed to
the cold wind. The shit weather had me tempted to bail on the summit on more
than one occasion, but I kept trudging along. I reached the summit in about
1:55 and immediately turned around to begin my descent. It was great to get low
enough that I could finally regain the feeling in my hands.
Weekly Totals
Miles—55
Time—27 hours 09 minutes
Elevation Gain—25,600
feet
Week in Review:
August 18-24
Monday, August 18th
AM—16.5
Miles—7:32—9,500’—Mount Belford (14,197’), Mount Oxford (14,153’), Mount
Harvard (14,420’), and Mount Columbia (14,073’)
My legs felt pretty crappy all day, but it still turned out
to be a good day in the hills with Peter. I was most pleased with our route
selection and time from the summit of Oxford to the summit of Harvard. I don’t
think we could have picked a path with less resistance. Peter’s route finding
skills are top-notch. The worst part of the day was definitely the descent of
Columbia’s west slopes—steep and loose.
Splits:
Belford—1:41
Oxford—2:10 (0:29 split)
Harvard—4:25 (2:15 split)
Columbia—5:55 (1:30 split)
AM—7.5 Miles—3:59—4,300’—Pyramid Peak (14,018’)
Pretty mellow day. I had a few
instances while rock hopping and making my way up to the ridge where I didn’t
think I would get the summit today due to rain. Luckily, it would just sprinkle
for a few minutes then quit. Once on the ridge, this is a really enjoyable
route on quite solid rock considering you’re in the Elks.
Wednesday, August 20th
OFF—Climbing at Gold
Butte (Aspen, CO)
I led and top-roped the 5.7 route, Flake Armour. I also led
and top-roped the 5.6 route, Rat-A-Tat-Tat. Rat-A-Tat-Tat would likely have
been much easier to solo since there was so much rope drag. Several times I
felt like I was going to be pulled off the rock by the rope.
AM—13
Miles—2:11—2,500’—Sunnyside Loop (Aspen, CO)
A fun, runnable loop run with Luke. Our pace up the first
big ascent was easy, but then we started hitting the descents and flats pretty
hard. We ended with a couple of 6:15 minute miles on pavement.
Friday, August 22nd
Luke cruising through a nice, flat stretch of the Sunnyside Loop |
PM—5
Miles—1:18—2,500’—Green Mountain
Just an easy day up-and-down the front side of the mountain.
First time up this peak in a long time…
Saturday, August 23rd
Went to Gold Hill Inn to celebrate Alex and Wayne's birthdays. My beard made a few people envious (Photo: Jeremy Gruber) |
AM—10.5
Miles—3:54—4,000’—South Arapaho (13,397’) and Old Baldy (13,038’)
Cold, windy, and wet with poor visibility. I was a bit
surprised with how many people I saw on the trails today considering how bad
the weather was. From the summit of South Arapaho I decided to head over to
North Arapaho, but was turned around at the crux slab since it was soaking wet.
My shoes wouldn’t provide enough purchase to make the usual quick-and-easy
shimmy up it. So, I decided to head over and tag the low-13er Old Baldy as a
consolation prize.
Sunday, August 24th
My last good view while ascending South Arapaho. Visibility went to crap shortly after this. |
Heading over to Old Baldy |
AM—8
Miles—3:23—2,800’—Mount Audubon (13,223’)
Another very cold and windy morning, but fortunately there
wasn’t any rain. The rocks were all frosted for the last several hundred feet
of ascent. We (Donald, his brother, and I) began with intentions of doing a big
traverse of 13ers in the area. We called it a day at Audubon due to the winds
and frosted rocks. August is way too soon to have an ice beard…
PM—4
Miles—2:26—2,800’—2nd Flatiron (x2) and 3rd Flatiron
August is way too early for an ice beard... |
After a couple of laps on the 2nd Flatiron (9:45
and 10:49) I decided to head over to the 3rd and see if I could
remember the route Peter had just shown me. I ended up staying too far north
(right) for most of the ascent, which made for slightly harder climbing (but
not much harder). Down climbing the SW chimney sucked since it was 2:30pm and
the sun was beating down on me. My hands were a sweaty mess…
Sweet view of the 1st from the 3rd's summit |
Looking back up at the SW Chimney downclimb off the 3rd Flatiron |
Weekly Totals
Miles—64.5
Time—24 hours 47
minutes
Good work ninja! I'm sure that was a memorable adventure. Cool, eh? Brah, I need to climb the 3rd sometime soon here. I did the SW Chimney, so I just need to nut up and do the East Face now. Its true that its easier than the 1st?
ReplyDeleteThanks man. It was a good little adventure. I sent you a message with my phone #. I'd be up for heading up the 3rd tomorrow if you want. The hardest part of the 3rd is the downclimb on the SW chimney. The East Face is slightly harder than the 2nd and significantly easier than the 1st. It's pretty much entirely 4th class until the last 50 feet or so to the summit. You have to downclimb the last 50 feet for your descent, though. But with good rubber you can actually just walk down it.
DeleteOh, if you haven't broke 9 minutes on the Freeway yet and want to I can help out with that. I have my PR down to 8:41 and have broke 9 minutes the last couple times. I've been hungover and it's been hot as hell each time. So, I'm pretty excited for things to cool of a bit and see if it helps my times.